Rub the surface with methylated spirits. If some of the paint colour comes of onto the cloth then it's most likely water based. If it doesn't appear to remove any then it is most likely an oil based enamel.
Lighting plays a huge part in the appearance of a colour, but generally the colour will look darker when seen on a large, interior area. Colours chosen for outside can appear much lighter. In some cases two or three shades lighter! It's always best to purchase a sample pot prior to buying larger quantities.
As a rough guide, most acrylic interior wall paints will cover about 12 square metres per litre, but always check the manufacturers label. If you work on around 4lt's of wall paint per average sized room for two coats you will go close to getting it right! Remember to calculate enough paint for two coats. The paint calculator on our site can also help you to estimate how much paint you may need to paint other rooms.
To ensure the proper durability and washability of paint, two coats must always be used to obtain a thick enough film build. Two coats are also important for even colour coverage and for an even finish.
Generally speaking, the lower the gloss and the darker the colour, the more noticeable marks, such as scuff marks, will be. For high traffic areas the choice of a satin acrylic or oil based finish may be the better option. Where scuff and scrub resistance is a high priority, (irrespective of colour) enamel paints are the preferred option. Resistance properties generally improve with increasing gloss level. We now have a quality water based enamel finish and the Haymes Trim Semi Gloss Acrylic would be perfect in this situation. It can also be used for exterior applications.
Because strong colours are tinted from a Clear or an Accent Base, the opacity of the finish comes mainly from the tinters. Some tinters, especially the yellows and reds, do not have the opacity to provide good coverage, regardless of the brand of the product or the tinter. A grey undercoat underneath helps these colours to have an even finish and to provide a solid colour. Sometimes certain colours will work over existing similar colours, however to avoid needing excess coats we will suggest when it will be best to apply the tinted undercoat. This is usually discussed once you have made your colour choice.
In terms of film properties, there is no reason why exterior paints can't be used inside. There may be other reasons (eg sheen level) why they may not be considered suitable. Drying times may also have to be extended.
The most important first step of preparation in this situation is to ensure that the existing paint is stable by doing a cross adhesion test. This is done by using a sharp blade to cut a deep, close together 'naughts and crosses' pattern in the existing paintwork. Press a piece of masking tape over the cut area and press down firmly. If any paint comes off when the masking tape is ripped off quickly, the old paint is not stable and therefore must be completely removed. If the paint does not come off at all with the masking tape, and as long as the surface is washed with warm soapy water, (to remove any contaminates) and sanded thoroughly (to remove any gloss), an exterior grade acrylic designed to be applied to a surface without an undercoat, can be applied. Two coats of this acrylic is always necessary for protection.If you are unable to sand the surface we would recommend using an undercoat that has high adhesion properties. We recommend using Haymes Ultracover. As the saying goes "When in doubt, undercoat!"
Remove all lose or flaking paint with a wire brush and sandpaper. Sand any remaining existing paint. With a rust converter, coat rusted areas and allow to dry (as recommended on can). Follow by spot priming areas treated with the rust converter with a metal primer and finish off with two coats of either an enamel or an epoxy coating. STEPS: 1. Remove flaking paint 2. Sand remaining paint 3. Use a rust converter on rust (optional depending on severity of rust) 4. Metal primer 5. Top coatNB An exterior acrylic paint may be used as a top coat if rust is not excessive. Please ask our team in store for you exact situation
It depends on what is being painted. For the majority of surfaces, an acrylic is going to last longer. Acrylics are softer, more flexible, and more resistant to chalking. This is because the acrylics have a much higher elasticity rate, so that when the surface, such as timber, expands and contracts with the weather, the paint moves without cracking. Haymes Acrylic Trim Gloss Paint is suitable for areas such as sash windows or any other situation where two surfaces are touching. This is because the general exterior acrylics, being softer, have the tendency to stick to themselves in hot weather, so using this Haymes product will avoid sticking. Oil based primers etc. are necessary for any ferrous metal, such as steel.
/products/krysler-premium-exterior-weathertuff-low-sheen-acrylic-whiteThere are various answers to this question. The most ideal situation for painting Colorbond is over a weathered Colorbond surface where the product has has a chance to chalk or fade or dull down. If it is necessary that the colour be changed over the new Colorbond surface then we would recommend the use of an etch primer or a similar undercoat that will bond well to glossy surfaces. An exterior acrylic may be used but curing time to both the undercoat and the top coat is extended. Durability may not be guaranteed and darker colours will need at least 2-4weeks curing time. During this period the paint can remain soft and may chip easily. Use of Wonderbond as a primer coat will assist adhesion. Please speak with our team about how to take the correct steps for your situation
Between 10-35 degree celsius and not when there is very high humidity (above 85%) or windy conditions. Avoid painting directly in the hot sun, since the surface can often be up to 10 degree celsius hotter. When painting outside in hot weather (i.e. porous surfaces using water based paint) dampening the surface slightly with clean water will help with the application.
In winter time it is best to get a coat on by around 11am. Painting later in the day limits the dry time and it may not be possible to put further coats on until later the following day. There is also a risk of dew settling in and causing blooming (water marks) which is noticeable on darker colours on exterior surfaces.
Acrylic paints have demonstrated outstanding durability in the most rugged of environments, including direct sunlight, moisture from rain and snow, and at the seashore. Due to the superior adhesion of acrylic paints, they don't tend to blister, crack or flake when exposed to rain or high humidity, compared to oil based paints. Note: Prior to painting, wash away any salt deposits found on the surface, along with any chalking.
Remove all dust and dirt from the surface and apply a solution of 10% Hydrochloric Acid and water using a brush or broom. Allow the acid to remain on the surface until all the fizzing has ceased, then thoroughly rinse the treated areas with liberal amounts of clean water. Allow to dry for at least a week before dusting and coating.TIP: Use a watering can to evenly apply the liquid. Then use a broom to spread across and work in sections. We now also stock Haymes Concrete Etch. A safer powder version perfect for DIY
Generally, short nap rollers such as a 5 or 6mm nap are designed for gloss paints and longer nap rollers are used for flatter finishes. The shorter the nap, the smoother the finish is going to be which is ideal for a gloss paint. Low sheen or flat paint requires a longer nap on the roller such as an 12mm or higher to provide a high enough film build. Crockers have a large range and we will recommend one to suit your needs.
The drying process is severely retarded and paints, especially solvent based paints completely stop drying when the temperature is or falls below 10 degrees. This is why manufacturers put a statement on their labels advising against painting in cold conditions. Even when the temperature is 14 or 15 degrees, the drying time of the coating is going to be dramatically affected, so it must always be taken into consideration. On cold days stop painting about mid afternoon so that the paint gets a chance to dry to a certain extent before the cold overnight temperatures and dew sets in.
It is strongly recommended that a wallboard sealer (or sealer undercoat) is applied as it provides a uniform surface for subsequent coats, and contributes to colour and sheen uniformity in the finish.
Water based paints can be attacked by bacteria, (causing a foul smell) but this happens very infrequently these days. Paint stored in a well sealed container will have a shelf life of at least 2 years. As a general rule, if the paint can be readily stirred into a uniform condition it will still be ok to use (irrespective of its age). To help with shelf life of paint, pour into, and brush and roll out of, a separate container. Avoid pouring excess paint back into the can and this will keep the can fresh and less likely to become contaminated.
A primer should be applied to any surface that has never been painted before. When repainting, a primer is needed when the surface is uneven in porosity, or when the surface has been stripped of paint or is worn down to the substrate (eg. bare metal).
Colours shown on the colour cards are as close as printing processes allow. The paint itself will appear darker in large areas and shade variations may occur as gloss levels vary. We would suggest buying a 500ml sample pot at a small cost first to ensure the colour is as you expected. Some companies will supply printed charts and like magazine print is not an accurate representation of the colour.
Magazines are great for getting an overall idea of a colour scheme, but when it comes time to decide you should always buy test pots. The sample pots we mix is how the paint colour will be. Your home can have many influencing factors that can make certain colours change, so use the magazines for an idea only. Photographs can be edited these days and so lighting etc can change the colour within the picture.
Not only are the raw materials that go into the making of the product better quality, but the manufacturing process also plays a part in the degree of quality of the products, for example, the amount of time the paint is actually milled for. A top quality product will tend to be easier to apply, more washable, more durable and more resistant to harsh weather conditions. Relative paint quality is dependant on a number of factors including material selection and material content. Lower quality paints' formulations can be 'cost trimmed' and therefore not give the same performance.
Scenario: Bathroom walls that have been previously painted in a water based paint. Due to lack of ventilation the room is very moist and a black mould has grown on the ceiling and upper section of the walls.
Answer: The only real long term solution for this situation is to eliminate the cause of the problem by improving the ventilation in the room. The walls then need to be washed down with a solution of household bleach and water or a mould killer/cleaner eg Mould Destroyer and then rinsed thoroughly. A preparatory coat of an anti-mould solution is necessary for bad mould and then two coats of a premium quality satin acrylic or enamel with the addition of a fungicidal additive into the paint should be applied. We sell Mould Destroyer and Mould Defence.
STEPS: 1. Wash area thoroughly with a bleach solution or mould killer/cleaner 2. Use an anti-mould preparatory product 3. Apply two coats of Haymes Interior Expressions satin acrylic or enamel
Bleach will only whiten the areas where mould is growing. It actually does not kill the mould spores. Use a product called Mould Destroyer and leave it 24hours before rinsing. This will kill spores. If the stains or marks from black mould are still visible you will need to use a stain blocker eg Haymes Ultralock prior to painting. Try to improve ventilation and put an anti mould additive (Mould Defence) into your paint.
If the previous coating was a turps-based polyurethane, a two-pack polyurethane will react like a paint stripper on the single pack, due to the solvents being a lot stronger. If the previous coating was also a two pack, it is still recommended that the coating be completely removed so that adhesion between the two coatings does not become a problem. If the coating is not going to be completely sanded off, thorough sanding of the surface to a dull matt finish is required to ensure adequate adhesion.
Yes you can paint plastic. We have a range of spray paint that can be sprayed direct to plastic with no primer. And we have primers both in aerosol and brushable that are suitable for plastic.
. We always recommend that the surface to be painted is clean and free from oils or grease. We suggest using Norglass Norclean Plus. A residue free cleaner.Whenever you are painting plastic, always allow time for the finished coats to cure. Curing time means "hardening up" This is different to drying time. The longer you leave these surfaces to cure the more durable the finished coat will be. To give you an idea you should allow at least 7 days , and longer if your paint colours have been tinted darker colours.